DISCLAIMER: Victoria Packing Corporation makes no warranties, express or implied, regarding these remedies or their performance, and shall not be liable for any losses incurred in connection with their use.   Many common satins fall into one of three categories: greasy nongreasy, and combination. These stains can be removed by following the appropriate method for each given below. When necessary, separate directions are given for washable and nonwashable articles. Directions for nonwashables are for articles made of fabrics that are not damaged by the application of small amount of water. GREASY STAINS Washable Articles Regular washing, either by hand or machine, removes some greasy stains. Some stains can be removed by rubbing soap or detergent into the stain and then rinsing with warm water. On some wash-and -wear or permanent-press fabrics, it may be necessary to rub soap or detergent thoroughly into the stain and allow it to stand for several hours, or overnight before rinsing. Often, however a grease solvent is necessary; this is effective even after an article has been washed. Sponge the stain thoroughly with the grease solvent and dry. Repeat if necessary. It often takes extra time to remove greasy stains from a fabric with a special finish. A yellow stain may remain after a solvent treatment if the stain has been set by age or heat. To remove a yellow stain, use chlorine or peroxygen bleach. If it is a safe for the fabric, a strong sodium perborate treatment is usually the most effective. Nonwashable Articles Sponge stains well with grease solvent and dry. Repeat if necessary. It may take extra time to remove greasy stains from fabrics with a special finish. A yellow stain may remain after a solvent treatment if the stain has been set by age or heat. To remove a yellow stain, use a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. If safe for the fabric, a strong sodium perborate treatment is usually the most effective. NONGREASY STAINS Many fresh stains can be removed by simple treatment stains set by heat or age may be difficult or impossible to remove. Washable Articles Sometimes, regular laundry methods will remove nongreasy stains; in other cases, laundering will actually set the stains. Sponge the stain with cool water or soak it in cool water for 30 minutes or longer; some stains require an overnight soak. If the stain persists after sponging or soaking, work a soap or detergent into it and then rinse. If the stain remains after detergent treatment, use a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. Nonwashable Articles Sponge the stain with cool water. If it remains, rub soap or detergent on the stain and work it into the fabric. Rinse. A final sponging with alcohol helps to remove the soap or detergent and to dry the fabric more quickly. Test alcohol on the fabric first to be sure it does not affect the dye. Dilute the alcohol with 2 parts of water before using it on acetate. If the stain remains after rinsing, use a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. COMBINATION STAINS Combination stains are caused by materials that contain both greasy and nongreasy substances. Washable Articles Sponges the stain with cool water or soak in cool water for 30 minutes or longer. If the stain persists, work soap or detergent into it and then rinse thoroughly. Allow the article to dry. If a greasy stain remains, sponge with a grease solvent. Allow the article to dry. Repeat if necessary. If a colored stain remains after the fabric dries, use a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. Nonwashable Articles Sponge the stain with cool water. If it remains, rub soap or detergent on the stain and work it into the fabric. Rinse the spot well with water. Allow the article to dry. If a greasy stain remains, sponge with a grease solvent. Allow to dry. Repeat if necessary. If a colored stain remains after the fabric dries, use a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. SPECIFIC STAINS Adhesive tape Scrape gummy matter from stains carefully with a dull table knife; avoid damaging fabric. Sponge with a grease solvent. Alcoholic Beverages Follow directions for non-greasy stains. An alternative method, if alcohol does not affect the color of the fabric, is to sponge the stain with rubbing alcohol. Dilute alcohol with 2 parts of water before using on acetate. If a stain remains, use a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. The alcohol in alcoholic beverages will cause bleeding of some dyes, which results in loss of color of formation of a dye ring around the edge of the stain. When either change occurs, the original appearance of the fabric cannot be restored. Antiperspirants and Deodorants Wash or sponge the stain thoroughly with soap or detergent and warm water. Rinse. If the stain is not removed, use chlorine or peroxygen bleach. Antiperspirants that contain such substances as aluminum chloride are acid; they may cause fabric damage and change the color of some dyes. Sponging with ammonia may restore fabric color. Dilute ammonia with an equal volume of water for use on wool or silk. Rinse. Blood follow directions for nongreasy stains, with one variation. If the stain is not removed by soap or detergent, put a few drops of ammonia on it and repeat the treatment with detergent. Rinse follows with a bleach treatment if necessary. Bloodstains that have been set by heat will be difficult to remove. Candy and Syrup For chocolate candy and syrup, follow directions for combination stains. For other candy and syrup, follow directions for non-greasy stains. Carbon Paper Work soap or detergent into the stain; rinse well. If the stain is not removed, put a few drops of ammonia on it and repeat the treatment; rinse well. Repeat again if necessary. Chewing Gum Scrape gum off without damaging fabric. The gum can be scraped off more easily if it is first hardened by rubbing it with ice. If a stain remains, sponge thoroughly with a grease solvent. Chlorine Bleach Use one of the following treatments to remove yellow chlorine bleach stains from fabrics with resin finishes, or to prevent such stains from appearing. Always treat the fabric before ironing it. On some fabrics, the yellow stains form before ironing; on others, after ironing. In either case, ironing before the chlorine is removed weakens the fibers. Yellow stains Stains caused by the use of chlorine bleach on wool and silk cannot be removed. White or faded spots caused by use of chlorine bleach on colored fabrics cannot be restored to the original color. Treatment for any fabrics. Rinse fabric thoroughly with water. Then soak for 30 minutes or longer in a solution containing 1 teaspoon of sodium thiosulfate to each quart of warm water. Rinse thoroughly. To strengthen the treatment, make the sodium thiosulfate solution as hot as is safe for the fabric. Treatment for white or colorfast fabrics Rinse the fabric thoroughly with water. Then use a color remover, following the directions given on the package for removing stains. Coffee and Tea With cream: Follow directions for combination stains. Without cream: Follow directions for nongreasy stains. Alternatively, for both types of stains, and if safe for the fabric, pour boiling water through the spot from a height of 1 to 3 feet. Correction Fluid Sponge the stain with acetone or amyl acetate. Use amyl acetate on acetate, ArnelŪ ; DynelŪ ; and VerelŪ ; use acetone on other fabrics. Cosmetics and Crayon Washable articles: Apply undiluted liquid detergent to the stain, or dampen the stain and rub in soap or detergent until thick suds are formed. Work in until the outline of the stain is gone; then rinse well. Repeat if necessary. It may help to dry the fabric between treatments. Nonwashable articles: Sponge with a grease solvent until no more color is removed. If the stain is not removed, use the method given for washable articles. Dyes follow directions for nongreasy stains; if bleach is needed, use chlorine bleach or color remover. A long soak in sudsy water often is effective on fresh dye stains. Fish Slime, Mucus, Vomit Follow directions for nongreasy stains or treat the stains or treat the stain with a lukewarm solution of salt and water-1/4 cup salt to each quart of water. Sponge the stain with the solution or soak the stain in it. Rinse well. Fruit, Fruit Juices Follow directions for nongreasy stains or, if it is safe for the fabric, pour boiling water through the spot from a height of 1 to 3 feet. When any fruit juice is spilled on a fabric, it is a good idea to sponge the spot immediately with cool water. Some fruit juices, citrus among them, are invisible on the fabric after they dry but turn yellow on aging or heating yellow stain may be difficult to remove. Furniture Polish Follow directions for greasy stains or, if the polish contains wood stain, follow directions given for paint. Glue and Mucilage Airplane glue, household cement Follow directions for correction fluid. Casein glue Follow directions for nongreasy stains. Plastic glue Wash the stain with soap or detergent and water before the glue hardens; some types of glues cannot be removed after they have hardened. To remove some dried plastic glue stains, immerse the stain in a hot 10-percent acetic acid solution or hot vinegar. Keep acid or vinegar at or near the boiling point until the stain is removed. This may take 15 minutes or longer. Rinse with water. Other types of glues and mucilage: follow directions for nongreasy stains, but soak the stain in hot water instead of cool. Grass, Flowers, Foliage Washable articles Work soap or detergent into the stain; then rise. If it is safe for the dye, sponge the stain with alcohol. Dilute the alcohol with 2 parts of water for use on acetate. If the stain remains, use chlorine or peroxygen bleach. Nonwashable articles: Use the methods for washable articles, but try alcohol first if it is safe for the dye. Ink, Ballpoint Sponge the stain repeatedly with acetone or amyl acetate, or spray it with hair spray. This will remove fresh stains. Old stains may also require bleaching. Washing removes some types of ballpoint ink stains but sets other types. To see whether the stain will wash out, mark a scrap of similar material with the ink and wash it. Ink, Black (India ink) Treatment the stain as soon as possible. These stains are very hard to remove if dry. Washable articles: Force water through the stain until all loose pigment is removed; otherwise, the stain will spread when treated. Wash with soap or detergent, several times if necessary. Then soak the stain in warm suds containing 1 to 4 tablespoons of ammonia to a quart of water. Dried stains may need to be soaked overnight. An alternative method is to force water through the stain until all loose pigment is removed, wet the spot with ammonia, and then work soap or detergent into it. Rinse. Repeat if necessary. Nonwashable articles: Force water through the stain until all loose pigment is removed; otherwise, the stain will spread when you treat it. Sponge stain with a solution of water and ammonia (1 tablespoon of ammonia per 1 cup of water). Rinse with water. If stain remains, moisten it with ammonia and then work soap or detergent into it. Rinse. Repeat if necessary, if ammonia changes the color of the fabric, sponge first with water and then moisten with vinegar. Rinse. Well. Ink, Drawing (colors other than black) Follow directions for nongreasy stains. If bleach is needed, use a color remover if it is safe for the dye. If a color remover is not safe, try other bleaches. Ink, Writing Washable articles. Follow directions for nongreasy stains. Because writing inks vary greatly in composition, it may be necessary to try more than one kind of bleach. Try a chlorine bleach on all fabrics for which it is safe. For other fabrics, try peroxygen bleach. A few types of inks require treatment with color removers. A strong bleach, however, may leave a faded spot on some colored fabrics. If a yellow stain remains after bleaching, treat it as a rust stain. Nonwashable articles: If possible, use a blotter (for small stains) or absorbent powder to remove excess ink before it soaks into the fabric. Then follow directions for washable articles. Iodine Washable articles: Three methods for removing iodine stains are given below. If the method you try first does not remove the stain, try another. Water: Soak in cool water until the stain is removed; some stains require soaking overnight. If the stain remains, rub it with soap or detergent and wash it in warm suds. If the stain is not removed, soak the fabric in a solution containing 1 tablespoon of sodium thiosulfate to each pint of warm water, or sprinkle the crystals on the dampened stain. Rinse well as soon as the stains removed. Steam: Moisten the stain with water; then hold it in the steam from a boiling teakettle. Alcohol: If alcohol is safe for the dye, cover the stain with a pad of cotton soaked in it. If necessary, keep the pad wet for several hours. Dilute with 2 parts water for use on acetate. Nonwashable articles: Try the steam or alcohol methods given above. Mildew Washable articles: Treat mildew spots while they are fresh, before the mold growth has a chance to weaken the fabric. Wash the mildewed article thoroughly and dry it in the sun. If the stain remains, treat it with a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. Nonwashable articles: Send the article to a dry cleaner promptly. Mud Let the stain dry; then brush well. If the stain remains, follow directions for nongreasy stains. Stains from iron-rich clays not removed by this method should be treated as rust stains. Mustard Washable articles: Rub soap or detergent into the dampened stain; rinse. If the stain is not removed, soak the article in a hot detergent solution for several hours, or overnight if necessary. If the stain remains, use a bleach. Nonwashable articles: If alcohol is safe for the dye, sponge the stain with it. Dilute the alcohol with 2 parts of water for use on an acetate. If alcohol cannot be used, or if it does not remove the stain completely, follow the treatment for washable articles but omit the soaking. Nail Polish Follow directions for correction fluid. Nail polish removers also can be used to remove stains. Before using nail polish remover on acetate, ArnelŪ, DynelŪ, or VerelŪ, test it on a scrap of material to make sure it will not damage the fabrics. Paint, Varnish Treat stains promptly, as they are always harder-and sometimes impossible - to remove after they have dried on fabric. Because there are so many different kinds of paints and varnishes, no one method will remove all stains. Read the label on the container if a certain solvent is recommended as a thinner, it may be more effective in removing stains than the other solvents recommended. Washable articles: To remove fresh stains, rub soap or detergent into the stain and wash. If the stain has dried or is only partially removed by washing, sponge it with turpentine until no more paint or varnish is removed (for aluminum paint stains, dry cleaning may be more effective than turpentine). While the stain is still wet with the solvent, work soap or detergent into it, put the article in hot water, and soak it overnight. Thorough washing will remove most types of paint stains. If the stain remains, repeat the treatment. Nonwashable articles: Sponge fresh stains with turpentine until no more paint is removed (for aluminum paint stains, dry cleaning may be more effective than turpentine). If the stain remains, put a drop of liquid detergent on it and work it into the fabric with the edge of the bowl or a spoon. Alternatively, sponge the stain with turpentine and treat with detergent as many times as necessary. If alcohol is safe for the dye, sponge the stain with it to remove turpentine and detergent. Dilute the alcohol with 2 parts of water for use on acetate. If alcohol is not safe for the dye, sponge the stain first with warm soap or detergent solution, then with water. Pencil A soft eraser will remove pencil marks from some fabrics. If the marks cannot be erased, follow directions for carbon paper. Perfume Follow directions for alcoholic beverages. Perspiration Wash or sponge the stain thoroughly with soap or detergent and warm water. Work carefully because some fabrics are weakened by perspiration; silk is the fiber most easily damaged. If perspiration has changed the color of the fabric, try to restore it by treating it with ammonia or vinegar. Apply ammonia to fresh stains and apply vinegar to old stains; rinse with water. If an oily stain remains, follow directions for greasy stains. Remove any yellow discoloration with a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. If it is safe for the fabric, the strong sodium perborate treatment recommended for greasy-stain removal is often the most effective for these stains. Rust Oxalic-acid method: PRECAUSTION: OXALIC ACID IS POISONOUS IF SWALLOWED. Moistened the stain with oxalic-acid solution (1 tablespoon of oxalic-acid crystals in 1 cup warm water). If the stain is not removed by a single treatment, heat the solution and repeat. If the stain is stubborn, place oxalic-acid crystals directly on it. Moisten the stain with water as hot as is safe for the fabric; allow it to stand a few minutes, or dip it in hot water. Repeat if necessary. Do not use this method on nylon. Rinse the article thoroughly. If it is allowed to dry in the fabric, oxalic acid will cause damage. Cream-of-tartar method: If the treatment is safe for the fabric, boil the stained article in a solution containing 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar to each pint of water. Boil until the stain is removed. Rinse thoroughly. Lemon-juice method: Spread the stained portion over a pan of boiling water and squeeze lemon juice on it; or sprinkle salt on the stain, squeeze lemon juice on it, and spread the fabric in the sun to dry. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat if necessary. Color removers can be used to remove rust stains from white fabrics. Scorch Stains If the article is washable, follow the directions for nongreasy stains. To remove light scorch stains from an article that is nonwashable, apply hydrogen peroxide. The strong treatment may be needed to remove the stains. Repeat if necessary. Severe scorch stains cannot be removed, however, because the fabric already has been damaged. Shellac using alcohol, sponge or soak the stain. Dilute the alcohol with 2 parts water from use on acetate. If alcohol bleeds the dye, try turpentine. Shoe Polish Because there are many different kinds of shoe polish, no one method will remove all stains. It may be necessary to try more than one of the methods given below. Follow directions for cosmetics. Sponge the stain with alcohol if it is safe for the dye in the fabric. Dilute the alcohol with 2 parts water for use on acetate. Sponge the stain with grease solvent or turpentine. If turpentine is used, remove it by sponging with a warm soap or detergent solution or with alcohol. If the stain is not removed by any of these methods, use a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. If safe for the fabric, the strong sodium perborate treatment recommended for greasy-stain removal is often the most effective. Soft Drinks Follow directions for nongreasy stains. When any soft drink is spilled on a fabric, sponge the spot immediately with cool water. Some soft drinks are invisible after they dry but turn yellow on aging or heating. The yellow stain may be difficult to remove. Soot Smoke Follow directions for cosmetics. Tar Follow directions for greasy stains. If the stain is not removed by this method, sponge it with turpentine. Urine To remove stains caused by normal urine, follow directions for nongreasy stains. If the color of the fabric has been changed, sponge the stain with ammonia. If this treatment does not restore the color, sponging with acetic acid or vinegar may help. If the stain is not removed by one or both of these methods, see directions for medicines and yellowing. Yellowing, Brown Stains To remove storage stains-or unknown yellow or yellow-brown stains-from fabrics, use as many of the following treatments as necessary, if safe for the fabric, in the order given. Wash Use a mild treatment of a chlorine or peroxygen bleach. Use the oxalic-acid method for treating rust stains. Use a strong treatment of a chlorine or peroxygen bleach.     COPYRIGHT©2005 VICTORIA PACKING CORP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ( CTR-110505-SRI)