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ABOUT SALTS Salt has many powers. The interplay of salt and water is essential to life itself. The maintenance of
a proper salt balance is vital to the system and different in every individual. Those from whom a low
salt or sodium diet has been recommended by their physician may replace the missing flavor by the
skillful use of herbs, spices, lemon juice and wine. Also they should be aware of the salt or sodium
content of softened water.
Salt's power of preservation made possible our ancestor's survival in the
waters, waste and wilderness through which they forged the world's greatest trade routes. While its
use in preserving food has become less important with the advance of refrigeration, it is surprising
how much we still depend on it: in the food processing of various kinds; in the curing of meats; in
the brining and pickling of vegetables; in freezing ice cream; even, now and then, for heating oysters
and baking potatoes.
In food preservation, the action of salt is two fold. It draws out moisture by
osmosis, thus discouraging the microorganisms which are always more active in moist than dry food.
Afterward, the brined formed by the salt and moisture in combination further prevents or retards the
growth of surface microorganisms. The power of salt to heighten the flavor of other food its greatest
culinary asset. This is true even candy making, when a pinch of salt often brings out a confections
characteristics best, and with uncooked food, as when salt is sprinkled on citrus fruits.
Its reaction
on cooked food is otherwise several sided. It tends to dehydrate when added to water in which
vegetables are cooked and firms them. It draws the moisture from meats and fish in cooking processes.
And it tends to deter the absorption of water by cereals, although it helps retain the shape of the
grain. It toughens eggs. And it must be used cautiously in bread making, as to much inhibits the
growth of yeast and adversely affects gluten formation.
These diverse properties of salt have provoked
argument, from time to time as to just when this very important ingredient should be added when
cooking food. It must, of course, be used very sparingly, if at all, at the start of any cooking in
which liquids will be greatly evaporated - such as the making of soups, stocks, and sauces. But small
quantities of salt, added early to soups and stews, which help in clarification.
It is obviously good
practice to sear grilled, broiled or roasted meat before adding salt, to retain juices and favor-
unless the meat is floured or breaded. And since it is almost impossible to get rid of excess in
cooked food-although occasionally a touch of sugar will make them palatable the amount must be
calculated with care.
We know from long experience that the flavoring enhancing power of salt is most
effective if it is added judiciously toward the end of the cooking process. Don't taste with the tip
of the tongue only, but with the middle and sides as well, where the greatest response to salt stimuli
lies. Salt occurs with in foods in varying amounts, animal sources having a higher salt content than
vegetable.
Sea fish, especially shellfish are heavier in salt than in freshwater fish. Of course,
pickled, cured or corned meats and sausages; broths, catsups, and extracts; brine processed frozen
fish, sardines, herring and anchovies as well as canned soups unless labeled " salt-free, " and canned
fish and meats - all are high in salt.
Do watch your salting arm when dealing with any of the foods
mentioned above, and in cooking artichokes, beets, carrots, celery, chard, kale, spinach,
dandelion greens, endive and corn - all of which are naturally more salty than most other vegetables.
And also be cautious with dates, coconut and molasses. When the word salt is used with out
qualification, it means cooking or table salt. To keep it free flowing, put a few grains of rice in
saltcellars.
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Cooking or Table Salt This is finely ground free flowing type, about 90% sodium chloride-to which dehydrators are frequently
added.
Iodized Salt This is recommended for certain areas where the water and soils are lacking in iodine, an essential
trace element.
Coarse, Kosher or Sea Salt A sqaurish - grained salt, with natural iodine and other minerals. It is very flavorful when used in
cooking and should be applied with a light touch. It is often served sprinkled over meats, after
carving and just before serving, so that it does not have time to melt completely. It is also
sprinkled over rolls, pretzels and bread before baking, as a sparking garnish. Do not confuse this
coarse salt with rock salt.
Brine Brine is a solution of salt and water - preferably soft water. Its purpose is to draw that natural
sugars and moisture from foods and form lactic acids in which protect them against spoilage bacteria.
A 10 % brine, about the strongest used in food processing, is made by dissolving 1 ½ cups of salt in 1
gallon of liquid or allowing 6 tablespoons salt to a quart of liquid. But after brining, as more
liquid continues to be drawn from fruits and vegetables, the brine maybe weakened. Always allow about
2 gallons of 10 % brine plus enough food to fill a 4-gallon jar. A rule of thumb to test for 19 %
brine is that it will float a 2- ounce egg so the shell just breaks the surface of the liquid.
Pickling or Dairy Salt This is pure salt that is free from additives, which might cloud the pickle liquid. It is available
in both granulated and flake forms, which may be substituted pound for pound. But, if measuring by
volume, use for every cup granulated salt about 1 ½ cups flake salt.
Rock Salt A nonedible, unrefined variety which is used in the freezing of ice cream - also as a base for baking
potatoes or heating oysters on the half shell.
Vegetable Salts These are sodium chloride with added vegetable extracts - such as celery and onion. If you use them,
cut down on the amount of salt called for in the recipes.
Seasoned Salts Usually a compound of vegetable salts, spices and monosodium glutamate. In using flavoring salts, be
sure not to add regular cooking salt before tasting.
Monosodium Glutamate A concentrated form of sodium that is usually extracted from grains or beets. It is also present in
bean curd and soy sauce. Long known as the magic powder of the East, where tons and tons of it are
consumed annually, it is sometimes used in this country, especially in commercially processed foods,
because of its power to intensify some flavors. It seems to have no effect on eggs or sweets. It may
modify the acidity of tomatoes, the earthiness of potatoes and the rawness of onions and eggplant. It
acts as a blending agent for mixed spices used in meat and fish cookery.
It is soluble in water but
not in fat. So, if you do use it, add it to the liquid ingredients. While it accentuates the
saltiness of some foods, just as wine does, it lessens the saltiness of others. We detect a certain
deadening similarity in foods flavored with monosodium glutamate and prefer, if a meat or vegetable is
prime, to let its own choice character shine through unassisted. Also known as MSG, this substance has
recently been revealed as the cause of allergic reaction known as Chinese Restaurant Syndrome which
causes untoward physical side effects in some people.
Sour Salt A citric acid, which is sometimes used to replace a lemon flavoring or to prevent discoloration in
fruits or canned foods.
Smoked Salts Hickory and others scented smokes have been purified of tars and are chemically bound to these salts
by an electrical charge.
Salt Substitutes These are chlorides in which sodium is replaced by calcium, potassium or ammonium. They should be used
only on advice of a physician.
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COPYRIGHT©2005 VICTORIA PACKING CORP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
( CTR-110505-SAL)
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