Flour sugar, eggs, milk, butter, flavorings-with this simple list of ingredients you can produce a
seemingly endless variety of goods, from breads to sauces to pastries. But to produce consistently
good brioche, Bavarians, biscuits or the like, you must pay careful attention to the character and
quantity of each ingredient, the way the ingredients are combined and how heat is applied to them.
Unlike a cut of meat that can be grilled, roasted; sautéed or braised and still be the same cut of
meal; bakeshop products depend on careful, precise preparation for their very identity. Accurate
measurements are critical in the bakeshop. It is equally important to follow bakeshop formulas
carefully and completely.
Unlike the rest of the kitchen, mistakes in the bakeshop often cannot be
discovered until the product is finished; by which time it is too late to correct them. For example,
if you omit the salt when preparing a stew, the mistake can be corrected by adding salt at service
time.
If you omit the salt from a loaf of bread, however, the mistake cannot be corrected after the
bread has baked, and its texture and Flavor may be ruined. It is more important to follow a written
formula, measure ingredients precisely and combine them accurately in the bakeshop than anywhere else
in the kitchen.
INGREDIENTS
Although substituting ingredients may have
little or no effect on some dishes (you can use carrots instead of turnips in a stew, for instance),
this is not the case with baked goods. Different flours, fats, liquids and sweeteners function
differently. Bread flour and cake flour are not the same, nor are shortening and butter.
If you
substitute one ingredient for another, the results will be different. Understanding ingredients, why
they function the way they do and how to adjust for their differences will make your baking
experiences more successful and consistent.
Wheat Flour
The most frequently used-and therefore the most
important-ingredient in the bakeshop is wheat flour (Fr. farine). Flour provides bulk and structure to
baked goods. Flour is produced by milling wheat kernels (berries).
Potatoes, Grains and Pasta, a wheat
kernel has an outer covering called bran. It is composed of several layers that protect the endosperm,
which contains starches and proteins. The innermost part is the germ, which contains fat and serves as
the wheat seed. During milling, the kernels first pass through metal rollers to crack them, and then
the bran and germ are removed through repeated stages of sifting and separation. The remaining
endosperm is then ground into flour. Flour derived from the portion of the endosperm closer to the
germ is finer; flour derived from the portion of the endosperm nearer the bran is coarser and darker.
The character of the wheat determines the character of the flour. Wheat's are classified as soft or
hard depending on the kernel's hardness. The harder the wheat kernel, the higher its protein content.
Soft wheat yields soft flour with low protein content. Soft flour, also called weak flour, is best for
tender products such as cakes.
Hard wheat yields hard flour with high protein content. Hard flour,
also known as strong flour, is used for yeast breads. Various types of flour are created by mixing or
blending flours from different sources. All-purpose flour, a blend of hard and soft flours, is
designed for use in a wide range of foods.
Aging and Bleaching
Any flour develops better baking
qualities if allowed to rest for several weeks after milling. Freshly milled flour produces sticky
doughs and products with less volume than those made with aged flour.
While aging, flour turns white
through a natural oxidation process referred to as bleaching. Natural aging and bleaching are somewhat
unpredictable, time-consuming processes, however, so chemicals are now used to do both. Potassium
bromate and chlorine dioxide gas rapidly age flour. Chlorine dioxide and other chemicals bleach flour
by removing yellow pigments in order to obtain a uniform white color. Bleaching destroys small amounts
of the flour's naturally occurring vitamin E, which is replaced in fortified or enriched
products.
Composition of Flour
Flour primarily consists of five
nutrients: fat, minerals, moisture, starches and proteins. Fat and minerals each generally account for
less than 1% of flour's content. The moisture content of flour is also relatively low-when packaged,
it cannot exceed 15% under government standards. But its actual moisture content varies depending on
climatic conditions and storage. In damp areas, flour absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Starches
comprise 63% to 77% of flour, and are necessary for the absorption of moisture during baking. This
process, known as gelatinization, occurs primarily at temperatures above 1400F (600C). Starches also
provide food for yeast during fermentation. Flour proteins are important because of their
gluten-forming potential.
Gluten is the tough, rubbery substance created when wheat flour is mixed
with water. Gluten strands are both plastic (that is, they change shape under pressure) and elastic
(they resume their original shape when that pressure is removed). Gluten is responsible for the
volume, texture and appearance of baked goods. It provides structure and enables dough to retain the
gases given off by leavening agents. Without gluten, there could be no raised breads: The gases
created by yeast fermentation or chemical leaveners would simply escape if there were no network of
gluten strands to trap them in the dough. The higher a flour's protein content, the greater that
flour's gluten-forming potential. The proteins responsible for gluten formation are glutenin and
gliadin. Flour does not contain gluten; only a dough or batter can contain gluten.
Aging and Bleaching
Any flour develops better baking
qualities if allowed to rest for several weeks after milling. Freshly milled flour produces sticky
doughs and products with less volume than those made with aged flour. While aging, flour turns white
through a natural oxidation process referred to as bleaching.
Natural aging and bleaching are somewhat
unpredictable, time-consuming processes, however, so chemicals are now used to do both. Potassium
bromate and chlorine dioxide gas rapidly age flour. Chlorine dioxide and other chemicals bleach flour
by removing yellow pigments in order to obtain a uniform white color. Bleaching destroys small amounts
of the flour's naturally occurring vitamin E, which is replaced in fortified or enriched
products.
Nutrition
'Flours are generally high in carbohydrates and
low in fat. The grains from which they are milled are often rich in vitamins and minerals. Some of
these nutrients, however, are lost during milling. In enriched flours, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin and
iron are added at levels set by the government.
Purchasing and Storing
Most flours are purchased in 50- and
100-pound bags. They should he stored in a lit, ventilated room at temperatures no higher than 800F
(270C). Flour can be stored in a refrigerator or freezer if necessary to prevent the onset of
rancidity. Refrigeration may cause the flour to absorb moisture, however, which will limit the flour's
ability to absorb additional moisture during actual use. An open bag of flour should be transferred to
a closed container to prevent contamination. Even unopened bags of flour should not be stored near
items with strong odors, as flour readily absorbs odors.