Victoria Cheese Information Center

Cheeses can be classified by country of origin, ripening method, fat content or texture. Here we classify fine cheeses by texture and have adopted five categories: fresh or unripened, soft, semi-soft, firm and hard. A separate section on goat's-milk cheeses is also included.

FRESH OR UNRIPENED CHEESES
Fresh cheeses are uncooked and unripened. Referred to as fromage blanc or fromage frais in French, they are generally mild and creamy with a tart tanginess. They should not taste acidic or bitter. Fresh cheeses have a moisture content of 40% to 80% and are highly perishable.

Cream cheese
is a soft cow's-milk cheese from the United States containing approximately 35% fat. It is available in various-sized solid white blocks or whipped and flavored. It is used throughout the kitchen in baking, dips, dressings, and confections and is popular as a spread for bagels and toast.

Feta
is a semi-soft Greek or Italian product made from sheep's and/or goat's milk. It is a white, flaky cheese that is pickled (but not ripened) and stored in brine water, giving it a shelf life of four to six weeks. Its flavor becomes sharper and saltier with age. Feta is good for snacks and salads and melts easily for sauces and fillings.

Mascarpone
is a soft cow's-milk cheese originally from Italy's Lombard region. It contains 70% to 75% fat, and is extremely smooth and creamy. Mascarpone highly perishable and is available in bulk or in 8 or 16 - ounce tubs. Its pale ivory color and rich, sweet flavor is useful in both sweet and savory sauces as well as desserts. It is also eaten plain, with fresh fruit, or spread on bread and Sprinkled with cocoa or sugar.

Mozzarella
is a firm Italian cheese traditionally made with water buffalo's milk. Today, cow's milk is more common and containing 40% to 45% fat. Mozzarella becomes elastic when melted and is well known as "pizza cheese." Fresh mozzarella is excellent in salads or topped simply with olive oil and herbs. It is a very mild white cheese best eaten within hours of production. Commercial mozzarella is rather bland and rubbery and is best reserved for cooking, for which it may be purchased already shredded.

Ricotta
is a soft Italian cheese, similar to American cottage cheese, made from the whey left when other cow's-milk cheeses are produced. It contains only 4% to 10% fat. It is white or ivory in color and fluffy, with a small grain and sweet flavor. Ricotta is an important ingredient in many pasta dishes and desserts.

SOFT CHEESES
Soft cheeses are characterized by their thin skins arid creamy centers. They are among the most delicious and popular of cheeses. They ripen quickly and are at their peak for only a few days, sometimes less. Moisture content ranges from 50% to 75%.

Bel paese
is a 20th-century Italian creation made from cows milk and containing approximately 50% fat. It is mild and creamy with a fruity flavor. The inside is yellowish, and tile outside is brown or gray. Bel paese is excellent for snacking and melts easily.

Brie
is a rind-ripened French cheese made with cow's milk and containing about 60% fat. Brie is made in round, flat disks weighing 2 or 4 pounds; it is coated with a bloomy white rind.

At the peak of ripeness, it is creamy and rich, with a texture that oozes. Selecting a properly ripened Brie is a matter of judgment and experience. Select a cheese that is bulging a bit inside its rind; there should be just the beginning of a brown coloring on the rind. If underripe, Brie will be bland with a hard, chalky core.

Once the cheese is cut, it will not ripen any further. If overripe, Brie will have a brownish rind that may be gummy or sagging and will smell strongly of ammonia. The rind is edible, but trim it off if preferred. The classic after dinner cheese, Brie is also used in soups, sauces and hors d'oeuvres.

Boursin
is a triple-cream cows-milk cheese from France containing approximately 75% fat. Boursin is usually flavored with peppers, herbs or garlic. It is rindless, with a smooth, creamy texture, and is pickled in small, foil-wrapped cylinders. Boursin is a good breakfast cheese and a welcome addition to any cheese board. It is also a popular filling for baked chicken.

Camembert
is a rind-ripened cheese from France containing approximately 45% fat. Bavaria also produces a Camembert, though of a somewhat lesser quality. Camembert is creamy like Brie, but milder. It is shaped in small round or oval disks and is coated with a white bloomy any rind Selecting a properly ripened Camembert is similar to selecting a Brie, but Camembert will become overripe and ammoniated even more quickly than Brie.

Camembert is an excellent dessert or after-dinner cheese and goes particularly well with fruit.

SEMI-SOFT CHEESES
Semi-Soft cheeses include many mild, buttery cheeses with smooth, sliceable textures. Some semi-soft cheeses are also known as monastery or Trappist cheeses because their development is traced to monasteries, some recipes having originated during the Middle Ages. The moisture content of semi-soft cheeses ranges from 40% to 50%.

Doux de Montagne
is a cow's-milk cheese from France containing approximately 45% fat. Produced in the foothills of the Pyrenees, it is also referred to as pain de Pyrenees. Doux de Montague is pale yellow with irregular holes and a mellow, sweet, nutty flavor. It is sometimes studded with green peppercorns, which provide a tangy flavor contrast. It is usually shaped in large, slightly squashed spheres and coated with brown wax. Doux de Montagne is good before dinner and for snacking.

Fontina
is a cows-milk cheese from Italy's Piedmont region containing approximately 45% fat. The original, known as fontina VaI D'Aosta, has a dark gold, crusty rind; the pale gold, dense interior has a few small holes. It is nutty and rich. The original must have a purple trademark stamped on the rind.

Imitation fontinas (known as fontal or fontinella) are produced in Denmark, France, Sweden, the United States and other regions of Italy. They tend to be softer, with less depth of flavor, and may have a rubbery texture. Real fontina is a good after-dinner cheese; the imitations are often added to sauces, soups or sandwiches.

Gorgonzola
is a blue-veined cow 's-milk cheese from Italy containing 18% fat. Gorgonzola has a white or ivory interior with bluish-green veins. It is creamier than Stilton or Roquefort, with a somewhat more pungent, spicy, earthy flavor. White gorgonzola has no veins but a similar flavor while aged gorgonzola is drier and crumbly with a very strong, sharp flavor. The milder Gorgonzolas are excellent with fresh peaches or pears or crumble in a salad. Gorgonzola is also used in sauces and in the torta con basilico a cake-like cheese loaf composed of layers of cheese, fresh basil and pine nuts.

Gouda
is a Dutch cheese containing approximately 48% fat. Gouda is sold in various-sized wheels covered with red or yellow wax. The cheese is yellow with a few small holes and a mild, buttery flavor. Gouda may be sold soon after production, or it may be aged for several months, resulting in a firmer more flavorful cheese. Gouda is widely popular for snacking and in fondue.

Havarti
is a cow's-milk monastery-style cheese from Denmark containing 45% to 60% fat. Havarti is also known as Danish Tilsit or by the brand name Dofino. Pale yellow with many small, irregular holes, it is sold in small rounds, rectangular blocks or loaves. Havarti has a mild flavor and creamy texture. It is often flavored with dill, caraway seeds or peppers. Havarti is very popular for snacking and in sandwiches.

Port du Salut
is a monastery cow's-milk product from France containing approximately 50% fat. Port du Salut (also known as Port Salut) is smooth, rich and savory. It is shaped in thick wheels with a dense, pale yellow interior and an edible, bright orange rind. The Danish version is known as Esrom. One of the best and most authentic Port do Saluts has the initials S.A.F.R. stamped on the rind. Lesser-quality brands may be bland and rubbery. It is popular for breakfast and snacking, especially with fruit.

Roquefort
is a blue-veined sheep's-milk cheese from France containing approximately 45% fat. One of the oldest cheeses, Roquefort is intensely pungent with a rich, salty flavor and strong aroma. It is a white paste with veins of blue mold and a thin natural rind shaped into thick, foil-wrapped cylinders.

Roquefort is always aged for at least three months in the limestone caves of Mount Combalou. Since 1926, no producer outside this legion can legally use the name Roquefort or even "Roquefort-style." Roquefort is au excellent choice for serving before or after dinner and is, of course, essential for Roquefort dressing.

Stilton
is a blue-veined cow's-milk cheese from Great Britain in containing 45% fat. Stilton is one of the oldest and grandest cheeses in the world; it has a white or pale yellow interior with evenly spaced blue veins. Stilton's distinctive flavor is pungent, rich and tangy, combining the best of blues and cheddars, it is aged in cool ripening rooms for four to six months to develop the blue veining; it is then sold in tall cylinders with a crusty, edible rind. Stilton should be wrapped in a cloth dampened with salt water and stored at cool temperatures, but not refrigerated. It is best served alone, with plain crackers, dried fruit or vintage port.

FIRM CHEESES
Finn cheeses are not hard or brittle. Sonic are close-textured and flaky, hike cheddar; others are dense, holey cheeses like Swiss Emmenthaler. Most firm cheeses are actually imitators of these two classics. Their moisture content ranges from 30% to 40%.

Cheddars
are produced in both North America and Great Britain. American Cheddar is a cows-milk cheese made primarily in New York, Wisconsin, Vermont and Oregon, containing from 45% to 50% fat.

The best cheddars are made from raw milk and aged for several months. (Raw milk may be used in the United States provided the cheese is then aged at least 60 days.) They have a dense, crumbly texture.

Cheddars may be white or colored orange with vegetable dyes, depending on local preference. Flavors range from mild to very sharp, depending on the age of the cheese. Colby and Longhorn are two well-known mild, soft-textured Wisconsin cheddars. Cheddars are sold in a variety of shapes and sizes, often coated with wax. Good-quality cheddars are welcome additions to any cheese board, while those of lesser-quality are reserved for cooking and sandwiches. English Cheddar is a variety of cows-milk cheese produced in Great Britain containing approximately 45% fat.

Perhaps the most imitated cheese in the world; true English cheddar is rarely seen in the United Slates because of import restrictions. It is a moist yet sliceable cheese, aged at least six months.

Emmenthal
(Swiss) is a cow's-milk cheese from Switzerland containing approximately 45% fat. Emmenthaler is the original Swiss cheese; it accounts for more than half of Switzerland's cheese production. It is mellow, rich and nutty with a natural rind and a light yellow interior full of large holes. It is ripened in three stages with the aid of fermenting bacteria.

The holes or "eyes" are caused by gases expanding inside the cheese during fermentation. Authentic Emmenthaler is sold in 200-pound wheels with the word Switzerland is stamped on the rind like the spokes of a wheel. Emmenthaler, one of the basic fondue cheeses, is also popular for sandwiches, snacks and after dinner with fruit and nuts.

Gruy�re
is a cows-milk cheese made near Fribourg in the Swiss Alps and containing approximately 45% to 50% fat. Gruy�re is often imitated, as the name is not legally protected. True Gruy�re is moist and highly flavorful, with a sweet nuttiness similar to Emmenthaler.

Gruy�re is aged for up to 12 months and then sold in huge wheels. It should have small, well-spaced holes and a brown, wrinkled rind, Gruy�re melts easily and is often used with meats and in sauces, but it is also appropriate before or after dinner.

Jarlsberg
is a Swiss-type cows-milk cheese from Norway containing approximately 45% fat. Jarlsberg closely resembles Swiss Emmenthaler in both flavor and appearance. It is mild with a delicate, sweet flavor and large holes. Jarlsberg has a pale yellow interior; it is coated with yellow wax and sold in huge wheels. It has a long shelf life and is popular for sandwiches, snacks and in cooking.

Monterey Jack
is a cheddar-like cow's-milk cheese from California containing 50% fat. It is very mild and rich, with a pale ivory interior. It is sold in wheels or loaves coated with dark wax. Jack" is often flavored with peppers or herbs and is good for snacking, sandwiches and in Mexican dishes. Dry-aged Jack develops a tough, wrinkled brown rind and a rich, firm yellow interior. It has a nutty, sharp flavor and is dry enough for grating.

Provolone
is a cow's-milk cheese from southern Italy containing approximately 45% fat. Provolone dolce, aged only two months, is mild, with a smooth texture. Provolone piccante, aged up to six months, is stronger and somewhat flaky or stringy. Smoked provolone is also popular, especially for snacking. Provolone is shaped in various ways, from huge salamis to plump spheres to tiny piglets shaped by hand. It is excellent in sandwiches and for cooking, and is often used for melting and in pizza and pasta dishes.

HARD CHEESES
Hard cheeses are not simply cheeses that have been allowed to dry out. Rather, they are carefully aged for extended periods and have a moisture content of about 30%. Hard cheeses are most often used for grating; the best flavor will come from cheeses grated as needed. Even the finest hard cheeses begin to lose their flavor within hours of grating. The most famous and popular of the hard cheeses are those from Italy, where they are known as grana. Hard cheeses can also be served as a table cheese or with a salad.

Asiago
is a cow's-milk cheese from Italy containing approximately 30% fat. After only one year of aging, Asiago is sharp and nutty with a cheddar-like texture. If aged for two years or more, Asiago becomes dry, brittle and suitable for grating. Either version should be an even white to pale yellow in color with no dark spots, cracks or strong aromas. It is sold in small wheels and keeps for long periods if well wrapped. Asiago melts easily and is often used in cooking.

Parmigiano-Reggiano
(Parmesan) is a cow's-milk cheese made exclusively in the region near Farina, Italy, containing from 32% to 35% fat. Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of the world's oldest and most widely copied cheeses. Used primarily for grating and cooking, it is rich, spicy and sharp with a golden interior and a hard oily rind . It should not be overly salty or bitter.

Reggiano, as it is known, is produced only from mid-April to mid-November. It is shaped into huge wheels of about 80 pounds (36 kilos) each, with the name stenciled repeatedly around the rind. Imitation Parmesan is produced in the United States, Argentina and elsewhere, but none can match the distinctive flavor of freshly grated Reggiano.

Pecorino Romano
is a sheep's-milk cheese from central and southern Italy containing approximately 35% fat. Romano is very brittle and sharper than other grating cheeses, with a "sheepy" tang. Its light, grainy interior is whiter than Parmesan or Asiago. It is packed in large cylinders with a yellow rind. Romano is often substituted for, or combined with, Parmesan in cooking, but it is also good eaten with olives, sausages and red wine.

Goat's-Milk Cheeses
Because of their increasing popularity, cheeses made from goat's milk deserve a few words of their own. Although goats give less milk than cows, their milk is higher in fat and protein and richer and more concentrated in flavor. Cheeses made with goat's milk have a sharp, tangy flavor. They' may range in texture from very Soft and fresh to very hard, depending on age.

Chevre
(French for "goat") refers to small, soft, creamy cheeses produced in a variety of shapes: cones, disks, pyramids or logs. Chevres are often coated with ash, herbs or seasonings. They are excellent for cooking and complement a wide variety of flavors. Unfortunately, they have a short shelf life, perhaps only two weeks.

Cheese labeled pur chevre must be made with 100% goat's milk, while others may be a mixture of cow's and goat's milk. The finest goat's-milk cheeses usually come from France. Preferred brands include Bucheron, exported from France in 5-pound (2-kilo) logs; Chevrotin, one of the mildest; and Montrachet, a tangy soft cheese from the Burgundy wine region. Spurred on by the increased popularity of chevre, a few American producers have developed excellent cheeses in a wide variety of shapes and styles.

PROCESSED CHEESES
Pasteurized processed cheese
is made from a combination of aged and green cheeses that are mixed with emulsifiers and flavorings, pasteurized and poured into molds to solidify. Manufacturers can thus produce cheeses with consistent textures and flavors.

Processed cheeses are commonly used in food service operations because they are less expensive than natural cheeses. And, because they will not age or ripen, their shelf life is greatly extended. Nutritionally, processed cheeses generally contain less protein, calcium and vitamin A and more sodium than natural cheeses.

Processed cheese food

contains less natural cheese (but at least 51% by weight) and more moisture than regular processed cheese. Often vegetable oils and milk solids are added, making cheese food soft and spreadable.

Imitation cheese
is usually manufactured with dairy byproducts and soy products mixed with emulsifiers, colorings and flavoring agents and enzymes. Although considerably less expensive than natural cheese, imitation cheese tends to be dense and rubbery, with little flavor other than that of salt.

CHEESE TERMINOLOGY
The following terms often appear on cheese labels and may help you identify or appreciate new or unfamiliar cheeses:

Affine-
French term for a washed-rind cheese.

Bleu-
French term for blue.

Brique or briquette-
refers to a group of French brick-shaped cheeses.

Brosse-
French term for cheeses that are brushed during ripening.

Capra-
Italian for goat's-milk cheese.

Carre'
French term for square, flat cheeses.

Cendre-
French term for cheeses ripened in ashes.

Coulant-
French for "flowing," used to describe Brie, Camembert and other cheeses when their interiors ooze or flow.

Ferme or fermier-
French term for farm produced cheeses.

Fromage a' tartiner-
French term for melting cheese, often applied to processed cheeses.

Kaas-
Dutch for cheese.

Kase-
German for cheese.

Lait cru-
French term for raw milk.

Laiterie or laitier-
French for dairy; appears on factory-made cheeses.

Mi chevre-
a French product so labeled must contain at least 25 percent goat's milk.

Ost-
Scandinavian term for cheese.

Pecorino-
Italian term for all sheep's-milk cheeses.

Queso-
Spanish term for cheese.

Rape-
French term applied to cheeses that are suitable for grating.

Tome or tomme-
term used by the French, Italians and Swiss to refer to mountain cheeses, particularly from the Pyrenees or Savoie regions.

Tyrophile-
one who loves cheese.

Vaccino-
Italian term for cow's-milk cheese.

MAKING MOZZARELLA
In Italy, is made everyday; it is meant to be consumed just as often. Before there was refrigeration, the balls of mozzarella were stored in well water to keep them cool, which is where the tradition originated of storing fresh mozzarella in liquid.

Once the milk is coagulated and the curds are cut the mass is slowly stirred to enhance the whey's expulsion. A few hours later, when the curds are mature, they are removed from the whey, chopped or shredded and then mixed with hot water.

To test the exact amount of maturity, a handful of curds is dipped into a bucket of hot water for 10 seconds. When the curds 'are removed, they should be kneaded briefly and then, holding the mass with two hands, it should be pulled and stretched out to determine its maturity.

When it is exactly ready to be strung, it can be stretched as thin and opaque as tissue paper. At this point, small amounts of curd are dumped into a small vat and stirred with hot water using a paddle. This is known as "stringing" the cheese because as the curds are mixed with the water they begin to melt somewhat and become stringy.

The more the cheese is stirred, the longer the strings are stretched. Eventually, all the strings come together to make large mass of satiny-smooth cheese. In Italian, the word filare means "to string"; therefore all cheeses that are strung are members of the pasta filata family.

When stringing is complete the cheese is ready to be shaped and hand-formed into balls. The balls are tossed immediately into vats of cool water so they will maintain the desired shapes. When cool, the balls are immersed in brine solution and then wrapped in parchment paper.